What is the microbiota?
It is our microbial flora: 100,000 billion microorganisms, bacteria, yeasts, fungi, viruses … which colonize our skin. This microbiota is formed from birth, on the surface but also inside hair follicles and sebaceous glands. “The whole is a sort of household in three between the skin cells, the saprophytic bacteria (the good) and the pathogenic bacteria (the bad)”, explains Pr Bieber, a German specialist. “We each have a different microbiota, a bit as if it were a second genetic code,” says Cyrille Telinge.
Our skin is covered with bacteria.
And that’s good for us. This “population” of microorganisms that flourish on our skin, called the microbiota, is the guarantor of its health. Understanding everything about the microbiome (a term that encompasses the microbiota, its genes and how it works) is one of the big projects in the scientific world. Concretely, we are made of 90% bacteria! If the intestinal microbiome has already been well explored, for the skin, it is newer and a world of new possibilities is opening up to treat certain skin pathologies, but also quite simply to maintain the skin at its best. beauty. Update on a subject rich in perspectives.
What is the role of this bacterial flora on our skin?
It protects us from aggressions, infections, inflammation, it guarantees skin inunity. “Some bacteria would even have an antioxidant action”, adds Cyrille Telinge, creator of the Novexpert brand. In the short term, it ensures good skin health, in the long term, it is beneficial to youth. A balanced flora means less damaged skin, which regenerates better, which ages less. The skin flora, the first player in anti-aging, we can say that.
Why is the bacterial flora out of balance?
If age, sex, genetics influence our microbiota, the direct environment is also a source of disturbance. That skin pH or body temperature vary and the flora is upset. Mechanical attacks, antibiotic treatments and the climate can also disrupt this ecosystem. As well as the products that are applied to the skin. “By dint of hygiene, we shot our skin flora,” warns Cyrille Telinge. Among the worst enemies: basic pH and preservatives.
“With the use of broad-spectrum preservatives, we don’t sort out good or bad bacteria. The flora has the capacity to rebuild itself, but the accumulation of attacks means that it can no longer do so ”, continues Cyrille Telinge.
Do we believe in microbiotic cosmetics?
Yes, cosmetology has the power to rebalance the skin flora, to allow a return to calm between skin cells and bacteria: “The skin microbiome is the least stable in the body but also the easiest to influence. », Analyzes Professor Thomas Bieber. And he’s just starting to unlock his mysteries. The first brand to “feel” that there were cards to play in terms of flora was Estée Lauder who, from the launch of Advanced Night Repair, used bifidus and lactobacillus, probiotics responsible for strengthening the flora. existing. “At the time, we didn’t understand the whole mechanism, but we noticed that it caused inflammation. At Bio-Beauté by Nuxe, a “probiotic like” complex is the star of the Rebalancing range to regulate combination skin and prevent imperfections.At Novexepert, prebiotics are used in all products to nourish the probiotics naturally present in the skin. The Hyaluronic Acid Booster Serum is additionally doped with probiotics (which play a role in the preservation of the product itself). And if hyaluronic acid, star ingredient in skincare, is known for its pulping effect, it is also very useful in stimulating the natural synthesis of peptides that destroy unwanted bacteria. A real flora friendly product. Beyond maintaining beautiful skin, attacking the microbiota also helps relieve real pathologies such as atopic skin. At Avène, I -modulia, a biotech active ingredient derived from the microflora present in Avène Thermal Spring Water,is used in XeraCalm AD Balm to stimulate the production of antimicrobial peptides and specifically regulate the microbial flora of atopic skin. At La Roche-Posay, Lipikar Baume AP promotes microbial diversity, the key to warding off crises, via Aqua Posae Filiformis, an active ingredient obtained by integrating the Vitreoscilla filiformis bacteria into La Roche-Posay Thermal Spring Water.
Tomorrow, (good) bacteria in our creams?
“We can imagine bringing an external bacterium to act directly on the skin microbiome,” says Professor Bieber. Moreover, studies have already been carried out on the level of the intestinal microbiota: the use of bacteria is shown to be more powerful than treatment with antibiotics to fight infection and restore a healthy microbiota. Creams full of good bacteria rather than preservatives that eliminate them indiscriminately, the cosmetology of tomorrow promises to be alive! A cosmetic is also emerging which would no longer be organized according to the type of skin but according to the type of microbiota. A new approach to tailor-made.
Reflexes to do good for the good bacteria in our skin
> Avoid alkaline washing products, such as soap. the microbiota thrives in acidic pH (around 5).
> Prefer in the morning to the foaming gel, a lotion and a simple rinse to preserve the flora which is reconstituted during the night. in the evening, a milk rather than a foaming gel or micellar water, more aggressive.
> Give preference to products with little or no preservatives, that is to say oily products and small capacities. The larger the bottle, the more preservatives there are.
> Avoid very hot water, which disturbs the skin flora.
> Use bactericidal hand gels sparingly. They prevent the flora from rebuilding itself.
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